Makeup True Beauty with product Knowledge and Tools

part one getting ready

embrace your own personal beauty—love who you are today and everyday.

—robert jones

True beauty

This content is all about you — who you are, who you want to be, and who you can be. I truly feel that every woman is beautiful. It is just a matter of recognizing your beauty and making it your focus.

I have long been convinced that beauty is not just about possessing a perfectly symmetrical face. Obviously, it’s marvelous to be blessed with exceptional features, but not all of the women I’ve made up in my many years as a professional makeup artist were flawless. Some of the most beautiful women I have ever seen or worked with are beautiful because of who they are and what comes from within. Beauty comes from the expression and character in your face—not just its symmetry. It doesn’t matter if you are short or tall, heavy or thin, or if your features aren’t those of a fashion model or famous actress. Your beauty comes from self-awareness, self-confidence, and your own magnetic personality. Actually, I feel that self-confidence is the most important element of true beauty.

My goal in writing this articles is to help you bring out that beauty from within by increasing your self-confidence about your outward appearance. I want to demystify the art of makeup and help you understand how to use it as a tool to better appreciate who you are. Some women think makeup is far too difficult to master, but it’s simple when you break it down. It’s merely a matter of using the right products, good tools, and the correct techniques.

First and most importantly, let me say that every woman needs to remember she is beautiful. By identifying your most striking features and accentuating them, we can make you look and feel more beautiful. Certainly one of the reasons I love being a makeup artist is the joy it gives me when I see how my work can change the way you feel about yourself. No matter what your age, if you are beautifully made up with bright eyes and a healthy glow, you will exude an aura of confidence that will draw people to you.

LESS IS MORE

Modern makeup should be simple and natural so it’s the face we notice— not the makeup. I feel that cosmetics are to enhance the features God gave you, not to change them. I’m not suggesting natural makeup means walking around all day looking washed out. By simple and natural, I mean your makeup palette should be suited to your complexion and should change with each season to complement the change in your skin’s natural tone. Sometimes I’ll notice a woman who obviously has made an effort with her makeup but has chosen a foundation color that’s all wrong for her skin tone, or she’s wearing a lip color that’s far too dark or vivid for her. The concept that “less is more” definitely holds true for makeup.

Makeup is meant to be beautiful, and beautiful makeup is all about the colors you choose and where you place them—never about how much you put on. I also think that it is important to remember that the face is not flat. It’s not one- dimensional, therefore don’t paint it that way. Makeup should be used to artfully sculpt and accentuate your best features—that is the very essence and purpose of wearing makeup.

YOUR MAKEUP MAKEOVER

Keep in mind that there are very few hard-and-fast rules in makeup and beauty. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. And since beauty is subjective, everything discussed in this article reflects my own personal views. Each professional makeup artist has his or her own style, as do each of you. Mine has been described by many as the ‘Glamorous-Girl-Next- Door’—I guess because I think all women should look beautiful but be approachable, and a little glamour never hurts. I want to help you discover your own personal style. Whatever the season or event, beautiful makeup will boost your self-confidence, which in turn will make you feel good about yourself, which will translate into true beauty. So read on— experiment with your makeup— have fun with it, and together we’ll discover a more self-confident and beautiful you.

Makeup is meant to be beautiful, and beautiful makeup is all about the colors you choose and where you place them—never about how much you put on.

—robert jones

The words

Mastering the art of makeup application begins with knowing some of the basic terms. As you read through the next couple of pages, you’ll find the definitions for some of the most commonly used words in the makeup business. Get to know and understand them, and you’ll soon be talking like a makeup pro.

Blush is for adding a wonderfully warm glow to the face. It can brighten the dullest of skin. If your cheeks are naturally rosy you might skip the blush and leave the glow up to Mother Nature.

Concealer is a miracle product that hides everything your foundation doesn’t. It makes broken capillaries, undereye circles, age spots and any skin discolorations disappear.

Contour is the opposite of highlight. Everything that we contour we push away from the eye to make it appear less visible. A “contour” shade is usually a darker shade that gives your features more depth and definition by contrasting against the lighter shades used on your face and around the eyes. Contouring is also the last step in the three-color layering technique for the eyes.

Dewy often refers to foundation finishes that create a fresh and glowing look with a slight sheen.

Eyeliner is for defining and “bringing out” the eyes, though it is not always necessary.

Eyeshadow is either applied lightly as a gentle color wash or as a more dramatic layering of color and texture to enhance and add shape to the eyes.

Foundation is a miracle product that evens out your complexion and covers imperfections. Your foundation’s tone depends entirely on your skin. If your skin is looking radiant and beautiful without help, then by all means skip the foundation and go to a light dusting of powder. However, if you do need foundation, it comes in a variety of texture finishes such as matte, satin, and dewy. If you have oily or blemished skin, choose matte. If your skin is normal or dry, you can choose from any of the finishes.

Frost is about maximum sparkle and super-shine. It is also sometimes referred to as iridescent. It is a fun, sexy look and works best on young skin because on more mature skin, it can draw attention to the fine lines. The term is usually used in reference to eye shadows and lip color.

Gloss is a super high-shine lip color. It can add a punch of color, but does not stay on as long as lipstick.

Highlight is the opposite of contour. Everything you highlight comes toward you and helps draw attention to a specific area or feature. A highlight shade is usually a lighter shade used on the face and the eyes. Highlighting is the first step in the three-color layering technique for the eyes.

Lip color is the quickest way to set the mood of your overall look. You can go all out and define your lips with color, or you can smear a clear gloss or healing lip balm for that pared-down, natural look.

Luminescence describes a foundation with light-reflecting qualities that creates a glowing, refined look. The light-reflecting properties contain specially shaped particles that bounce light away from surface lines and wrinkles to create a more youthful look.

Mascara gives you those full, long, thick, and dark lashes you’ve always wanted. If I’ve just described your natural lashes, an eyelash curler may be all it takes to spotlight your baby blues, browns, grays, or greens. (If marooned on a desert island, mascara would be the number one makeup product most women would like to have with them.)

Matte is used to describe lipsticks, eyeshadows, foundations, powders, and blushes that have absolutely no shine and appear flat. Matte lipsticks tend to be drier, but they stay on much longer. Matte foundations are excellent on shiny and oily skins and are best for imperfect complexions. There are also matte products such as powders and crèmes that will help fight oils during the day.

Metallic describes lipsticks, eyeshadows, and eye pencils that have a shiny, metal finish. It’s a look that’s fantastic on ebony or darker skin, but too harsh for lighter or more mature skin.

Midtone is a neutral, natural eye color that you sweep across the eyelids to help define and shape the eyes. The midtone shade should be a natural extension of your complexion and is the second step in the three-color layering technique for the eyes.

Opaque is a finish that provides absolute coverage, allowing nothing to show through.

Porosity is the skin’s ability to hold moisture. Moisturizer can “even out” the porosity of your skin and help your foundation, primer, or concealer go on more smoothly.

Powder is for setting foundation. It gives your face a smooth finish and keeps shine under control.

Satin refers to a formulation that’s neither as flat as matte nor as shiny as shimmer. A “soft satin finish” is often used to describe foundations and liquid cosmetics that give a soft, smooth finish to the skin. Satin products have a sheen to them but are not shiny. Satin eyeshadows are particularly good for mature skin because they glide on smoothly and add a soft sheen to the skin.

Sheer is a thinner and more transparent finish that gives the skin a glow. It usually contains silicone that allows makeup to glide on easily. The product clings less and covers more smoothly without being opaque. Sheer products seem to disappear into the skin, giving it a soft, more natural appearance. Sheer foundation is fabulous for mature women since it helps their skin appear brighter and fresher without drawing attention to fine lines. And it’s perfect for younger skin tones that need to be evened out.

Stippling is a blending technique used for concealers and foundations. It’s especially effective for blending out the edges of concealers. It is a patting motion, usually done with your fingers or a sponge. Stippling is also a great way to carefully apply one product over another. Just place some product, such as foundation, on your fingertips or a sponge and apply in a gentle patting motion so as not to disturb or erase the product you’ve already applied underneath, such as concealer.

Texture is the finish a product gives you—the way it appears on your skin. For example, a blush can have a creamy or a powdery texture. Foundation can have a dewy, creamy, sheer, matte, or satin texture. Lipsticks can be glossy, matte, or sheer. It’s always wise to match your textures powder on powder, crème on crème.

Product knowledge

With so many products out there, it sometimes seems hard to know which one is right for you. Well, never fear. Together, we’ll talk about the various makeup products, their forms and what makes them unique, and how to use each one. Aren’t you feeling more confident already?

Foundation is your most important makeup investment. It can make your skin appear flawless and natural, and give it a healthy glow. It can cover imperfections and blemishes, and smooth out uneven skin tones. Wearing it correctly can do more for your appearance than practically any other makeup product. It can also be one of the most difficult to choose correctly.

When making your foundation choice, there are two things to consider. The first is to match your skin tone and depth so that your foundation looks natural. Secondly, it’s important to match your skin type with the correct foundation formula. For example, if you have oily skin, sometimes the oils from your skin can mix with the product and make your foundation appear blotchy and uneven. Wearing the correct foundation formula for your skin type can help your foundation stay on longer.

My advice? Spend generously on your foundation. The difference in cost of cosmetics from one company to another is not only because of the packaging, but also because of the ingredients. The purer the ingredients, the more expensive a product will be. Higher-priced foundations usually contain a higher quality of pigments, which last longer on your skin and appear much more flattering. Cheaper foundations contain fewer and inferior pigments that usually don’t wear as long. If you want to treat yourself, splurge on the best foundation you can afford to buy. Foundation and powder are the bases of your look, and therefore the most important makeup products. Save your pennies on less expensive color products so you can afford to play around and have fun with color.

Thanks to modern technology, we have many advanced foundations to work with, and they can appear almost invisible. You can choose from a variety of textures and formulas that will give you different types of coverage and finishes. A product’s consistency and the way it actually goes onto the skin is the key to even, flawless coverage. The real goal for your foundation is for it to look as if you’re not wearing any at all. You simply give the illusion of having healthy, beautiful skin.

FOUNDATION GENERALLY COMES IN EIGHT DIFFERENT FORMS:

Stick foundation is essentially a neatly packaged crème foundation and concealer in one. Best for normal to dry skin, it is a good option for women who want more coverage. It offers ideal maximum coverage for imperfections as well as covering ruddy and uneven skin tones. Stick foundation will give you quick coverage, but it can look a little heavy on clear skin where a lot of coverage is not needed.

Liquid foundation is the most readily found and is suited to most—if not all—skin types. It is available in formulations from oil-free, oil-absorbing formulas to moisturizing formulas and gives varying degrees of sheer to medium coverage depending on the brand and the formula. You can purchase liquid foundation in a bottle or a tube. When applied, it gives you more coverage than a tinted moisturizer but less than a crème foundation.

Crème foundation is smooth and creamy and is specifically formulated for dry-to-normal complexions. It gives the skin a natural finish while offering the highest coverage. I find it to be the most versatile, because even though it tends to be of a thicker and heavier consistency, it can be made sheerer simply by applying it with a damp sponge. Also, because of its great coverage, it can even be used as a concealer if you don’t have severe undereye circles. Crème foundation is great for dry skin; however, if you have dry, flaky skin, beware, because it can look “cakey” and the result can be slightly dull and heavy- looking.

Mousse foundation is actually a crème foundation that has a whipped consistency. It generally comes in a jar rather than a compact, and it is usually lighter and sheerer than its compact counterpart. It evens out the skin tone without appearing heavy. I use mousse-textured formulas a lot because they seem to sink into the skin rather than sit on top of it. They give great coverage that appears very natural. They are fabulous on mature skin because they do not collect in fine lines like heavier crème formulas.

Tinted moisturizer is actually a moisturizer with a little color added. It’s the sheerest of all the foundations, and it’s perfect for use during the summer months when you feel like wearing next to nothing. It evens out the skin tone while providing minimal coverage.

Crème-to-powder foundation is quick and simple. It has a creamy texture that dries to a powder finish, so usually no additional dusting of powder is needed to set it. These formulas are kinder to oily skin than their crème counterparts because the powder helps cut down on excess shine.

Powder compact is a dual-finish powder foundation that gives a quick and convenient sheer to medium coverage. It is simply a pressed powder that can be used wet or dry. Used dry, it goes on like a pressed powder but gives you slightly more coverage. I find that it’s perfect for young girls because it’s low in oils and doesn’t clog pores, and so there’s little risk of pimples appearing without warning. And it’s great for touch-ups when you’re on the go. Applied with a brush, it gives you sheer coverage. Applied with a sponge, it gives you more coverage. Applied with a damp sponge, it gives you even more complete coverage, more like liquid and crème foundations.

Pigmented mineral powder is simply a loose powder that adheres to the skin, providing medium to full coverage. In addition to giving you coverage it also contains vitamins and minerals to help treat the skin. It works much like a dual-finish powder foundation and is simple to apply with a brush or a sponge.

concealer

concealer comes in various formulations and textures. Different textures of concealers are used on different problem areas, so it’s important to match the texture with the problem area. For example, a concealer used to cover undereye areas should always be moist and creamy, whereas a concealer designed to cover breakouts or broken capillaries should be much drier in texture so it will adhere better and last longer.

Solid cream stick concealers give full coverage but are not always the easiest to blend. They are used primarily for hiding some of the more prominent blemishes and skin discoloration. They can also be used to minimize undereye circles, but if you’re going to use this texture, make sure the consistency is creamy enough to blend well so as not to accentuate fine lines. Since the most delicate skin is under the eyes, using a hard-to-blend stick concealer can actually make the circles look far worse by drawing attention to them.

Pot concealer provides similar coverage to stick, but it is usually formulated with more moisturizing ingredients and is not quite as thick—much better for underneath the eyes. This is the concealer that’s probably the most commonly used by professionals because of the great coverage it gives. Although usually creamy, it is also available in drier, oil-free formulas that are used to cover discoloration on the rest of the face.

Tube concealer has a creamier texture that is lighter and less likely to collect in fine lines, making it great for mature skin. It’s also one of the most versatile forms of concealer. It provides terrific coverage and can be mixed with moisturizer or foundation to create a much sheerer product. It’s also perfect to use under the eyes because it’s one of the easiest to blend.

Wand concealers offer the lightest texture and are excellent for evenly smoothing skin tones. If the proper shade is used, you may apply it without a foundation because it will blend easily into bare skin. Wand concealers provide a quicker, slightly denser coverage than liquid foundation, and they’re absolutely fabulous for a fast repair. Some dry to a powder finish that’s great for covering facial blemishes because the powder clings, enabling it to be longer wearing.

Pencil concealers effectively cover tiny imperfections such as broken capillaries, blemishes and other tiny flaws. You simply draw it on. With an exact color match, they can be pinpointed without blending. Pencil concealers are also terrific for fixing lip lines.

Oil-free compact concealer formulations are best used on the face to hide pimples and spots. They are usually of a longer-wearing, drier texture that won’t irritate breakouts. Because of their wearability they are also effective for covering age spots and hyperpigmentation.

Highlight reflecting products thankfully are now available. They help to hide flaws but don’t actually cover. Instead they have light-reflecting properties that refract light to help minimize shadowed areas. In other words, they highlight (bring out) recessed areas such as the dark shadows created by bags and wrinkles. You simply apply it to the shadowed area and it brightens it, making it appear less distinct. You should apply them sparingly. Too often they are confused with concealers, which they most definitely are not!

Powder provides staying power for your makeup—it won’t last the day without it. It helps absorb the skin’s natural oils to help control shine throughout the day. And it’s the finishing step that helps your skin appear smooth and natural. You can even brush it on over a clean, moisturized face for a fresh, no-makeup look.

Most face powder is made from two bases: cornstarch and talcum. It basically comes in two forms, loose and pressed. Use a loose powder to set your makeup. It works best and lasts longest. Loose powder contains more oil absorbers than pressed, so it is the best choice for oily skin. Of course, if you travel, pressed powder is far more convenient to take along with you. Powder is an absolute must for oily skin. It absorbs extra oil from the skin and can be reapplied throughout the day. The finer a powder is milled, the higher the quality, so the less likely it is to cake on the skin. Finer-milled powders will feel more like velvet, whereas less-milled powders feel more gritty.

Eyebrow color is available in four formulas:

Pencil is the most precise and common way to define the brows. It usually has a slightly more waxy consistency than other makeup pencils to help it adhere better to the brows and last longer. If you prefer a brow pencil, make sure it is sharpened, because the sharper the point, the better the application.

Powder brow color is a matte, no-shimmer powder with a very high pigment content. It is usually applied with a brush and can be used to set brow crèmes and pencils to help them last longer. Powder provides the most natural look when filling in your brows.

Crème is the most dramatic looking and has the least natural appearance. It is a matte crème that is applied with a brush, and it’s best to set it with powder so it will last. It gives you the most opaque coverage, which is sometimes needed.

Brow gel is basically a hair gel for the brows. It’s great for unruly eyebrows because it helps keep the brows in place. Brow gels are available in tinted or clear formulas.

Tip:

Make sure the eyebrow pencil you choose is not too waxy, or it will be hard to apply evenly without looking harsh or fake.

Mascara generally comes in three formulas:

Thickening mascara coats each individual lash from root to tip with particles that add bulk to the lashes and help them to look thick and full.

Lengthening mascara contains plastic polymers that cling just to the tips of the lashes, making them appear longer.

Defining mascara coats the individual lashes, keeping them separated and defined. Defining mascara usually appears the most natural.

Most mascara is also available in a waterproof formula. However, unless you’re susceptible to allergies that make your eyes water, you might not want a waterproof mascara because it’s harder to remove and can damage delicate lashes. Also, women with sensitive eyes might want to stay away from waterproof because it is the most irritating of all formulas.

Most women don’t realize that the mascara wand is just as important to the finished result of your lashes as the mascara formula.

There are four basic brush shapes.

• A crescent-shaped wand that helps keep your lashes curled as you apply your mascara.
• A fat, bristly wand that helps to thicken by coating each and every lash.
• A wand that looks much like a screw, and either has very short bristles or none whatsoever. It allows you to define your lashes by painting each one right down to the root.
• A double-tapered wand is a wand with smaller bristles at each end, tapering to fatter ones in the center. It works very nicely to define each thin, sparse lash while adding a little bulk.

It’s always better to apply two thin coats of mascara rather than one thick, “clumpy” coat. I personally prefer thick, voluminous-looking lashes. I think they help define the eyes and they look so much more glamorous than thin, spidery- looking lashes.

Eyeliner comes in four basic formulas:

Liquid eyeliner is a colored liquid that is applied with a fine-tip brush. Liquid stays on the longest and looks the most dramatic. You can also find it in felt-tip pens or with a pointed, sponge-tip applicator. Liquid liner is a good choice to use with strip false eyelashes because it successfully conceals the band of the lash. Liquid eyeliner should only be applied along the top lashline, never along the bottom lashline, because it looks too harsh and unnatural.

Cake eyeliner is a pressed powder-like product that is applied with a damp brush. It will give you a similar effect to liquid eyeliner, but it’s much easier to control.

Crème eyeliner is usually packaged in a pot and is applied using a damp brush. It will also give you a similar effect to liquid eyeliner. The fact that it dries much quicker makes it much easier to use without smearing it all over the place.

Pencil is the most commonly used eyeliner simply because it’s the easiest to control. There are many pencil textures available. Some are drier and harder and some are creamier and glide on effortlessly. In the past, many women felt the need to soften their hard, dry pencils using a lighter or a match. Thankfully, most pencils now contain silicone that enables them to glide on smoothly and makes them easy to smudge and blend. The best choice is a pencil with just enough silicone to glide on easily, but not so much that it smears or travels. Make sure your pencil is at least water-resistant so it will stay put and not smudge.

Tip:

Remember that sharpening your pencil often will make it easier to use.

Eyeshadow comes in various textures and finishes:

TEXTURES

Powder shadows come either loose or pressed. Both formulas vary from matte to shimmer and from iridescent to frosty. They are the most popular and the easiest to use because they blend so well. In most makeup lines, they offer the largest color choices in this texture.

Crème shadows are available in matte and shimmer. They are great for a wash of color across the whole lid. Be careful because many crème shadows can crease. However, there are some crème eyeshadows that dry to a powder finish. They work the best. You can also mix crème and powder eyeshadows together to increase the intensity of the shade.

Liquid usually comes in a shiny, metallic finish and it’s actually the hardest to use. Since it doesn’t blend easily you must be more precise, so it’s best when applied with a brush. Liquid is usually used either as an eyeliner or applied close to the lashline for color intensity.

Pencil shadows are useful for around the eye because they are sharpened to a point and can be applied with such precision. When you’ve finished, you can simply smudge the line with your finger, a sponge-tip applicator, or a brush to create the effect you want.

Tips:

For a more intense color, try using both powder and crème shadows together. Remember that powder on top of crème will hinder blending, but you still always begin with the crème. It contradicts the rule of crème-on- crème, powder-on-powder — but it works.
You can also use your powder shadow as eyeliner. Simply apply it wet or dry using a brush.
Some powder shadows are harder-pressed and more powdery, while others have a slightly creamy texture.

FINISHES

Matte is the best for creating a natural no-makeup look and is the best finish for midtone shades because of its natural appearance. It usually contains a higher level of color pigment and works really well for reshaping and defining the eye.

Shimmer shadows offer great, sheer coverage so that when you sweep on the color, you can still see the skin underneath. Shimmer shadows have a subtle sheen and give a hint of sparkle. They typically won’t collect in fine lines, which makes them a perfect choice for mature skin. Light shimmer shadows work great for highlighting and bringing out recessed areas of the eyelid. Dark shimmer shadows are great for adding drama without being as harsh as deep-tone matte shades.

Frost shadows give much more opaque coverage and feature a white or silver sparkle. They usually come in fun, light pastel shades that work best on younger skin. Frosted shadows can easily sink into wrinkles and therefore do not work as well on mature skin.

Satin falls perfectly in between matte and shimmer. It’s shinier than matte, but not nearly as shiny as a shimmer. A satin finish works well on all skin types, including mature skin.

Blush usually comes in four different textures:

Powder blush is color pigment set in a powder base. Applied with a soft blush brush, it gives a dusting of color that works well with all skin types. It’s the most popular type of blush because it’s the easiest to control and use—and it’s usually available in the widest range of shades. Powder blush is the best choice for oily skin.

Tip:

If you’re using powder blush directly on bare skin, be sure to powder your face first to prevent it from looking splotchy.

Crème blush is color pigment set in a crème base. It has a fresh dewy finish that gives the face a luminous, natural glow. It is great on dry skin because it slides easily over the surface. It works best when applied before you powder because it will blend more easily. Unfortunately, if you have oily skin, crème blush is not your best choice because it won’t wear well. And it doesn’t work well on skin with large pores because it tends to accentuate them. It’s great for those who don’t need or want to wear foundation. Just apply it with your fingers or a sponge and work it into your skin.

Gel blush is basically made up of color pigments that are wrapped within silicone particles. It will smooth very nicely onto bare skin to create a pretty, sheer, translucent glow. That’s not to say you can’t use it with foundation; you can. Just make sure you apply it before you powder. It’s long-lasting, looks very natural, and is easy to use. You can use your fingers or a sponge to apply it, then smooth it into the skin.

Liquid blush is actually a liquid that stains the skin. It’s terrific for all skin types. It’s applied like the gel blush, but is more difficult to work with because it must be blended quickly due to its staining quality. It’s waterproof, so you can expect it to last all day. Just like crème blush or gel blush, you can use either a sponge or your fingers to apply and blend it into your skin.

Bronzer is used to give the skin a warm, healthy glow. It usually comes in powder and crème formulas.

Powder bronzer, like powder blush, is the most popular because it’s so easy to control and blend. It can come packaged in a variety of ways—pressed in a compact, loose in a tub, or even in a jar pressed into small balls or beads. Swept across strategic areas of the face with a brush, it can bring the skin to life.

Crème bronzer, like bronzing powder, is used to give the face a sun-kissed glow. You can find it in the form of a stick or even in compacts. It can be applied with your fingers or a sponge. It’s great on dry skin, or when you don’t want to wear foundation but want a little extra glow.

Lipstick is available in a variety of formulas:

Matte delivers sophisticated and intense full-coverage color that contains absolutely no shine. Because of its formulation it stays on longer, but it can be drying and may give your lips the feeling and appearance of being dehydrated. It is great in dark, intense shades because it stays put and won’t smear, but it certainly does nothing to make the lips look younger or fuller.

Crème contains more emollients than matte lipstick and provides a full coverage of moist (though not shiny) color. Most cosmetic lines offer the largest selection in this formula because it is the most versatile and popular. It wears quite well without being as dehydrating as matte lipstick.

Frost provides a pale, shiny, metallic appearance. But because of the single color of sheen in the formula’s ingredients, there is a tendency for the lips to appear a little dry. It usually gives very opaque coverage that is not wonderful for mature lips.

Sheer is actually a glossy, sheer color wash that allows the natural lips to show through because it is not formulated to cover opaquely. It’s similar to a gel blush because it is simply pigments mixed with a gel. It lasts longer than a gloss, but not as long as a crème lipstick. It’s terrific for a quick fix because, due to its sheerness, it doesn’t have to be applied with precision.

Gloss is a lip color with extreme shine and moisture. It delivers a sheer layer of color that is going to need frequent reapplication. Although it doesn’t last terribly long, gloss gives a fresh-and-alive look that’s perfect for all age groups. Used correctly, it can make the lips look fuller and sexier. You’ll find it packaged in a wand, tube, or pot.

Lip liner is a pencil that’s used to define your lips. It helps correct lip shapes as well as prevent lip color from bleeding into fine lines. It can also be used over the entire lip, then topped with a color. Using a lip liner greatly improves the staying power of any lip color.

The Tools

A painter selects the right brush to create the perfect stroke on a canvas, and so does a makeup artist — but in the case of the makeup artist, the canvas is skin. You can choose the right brush, too, with a little help from me. In this chapter, I’ve featured the best basic tools from my own brush collection to help you create the makeup effects you want. Remember: Makeup is like a work of art, an expression of your inner beauty. So experiment and have fun!

SPONGES

The most important thing to remember when selecting a sponge is that it should be made of a high-quality foam rubber so that it glides smoothly across your skin. It can be any shape you like—round, oval, triangular, or wedge— whatever feels the most comfortable in your hand. Use it for applying foundation and concealer or for blending.

POWDER PUFF

The best puffs are usually fluffy with a soft velour texture. It’s a good idea to invest a little more and get a good-quality powder puff so you can launder it to keep it clean. Use it for applying pressed or loose powder.

EYELASH CURLERS

This tool is used to curl the lashes, which helps create the illusion of “opening up” the eyes. This is a must-have beauty tool for women of all ages.

There is now a choice for those that are afraid of crimp eyelash curlers. This curler (pictured below) will curl the most stubborn lashes because it uses heat and works with mascara. It is used after mascara to curl your lashes.

Brushes

The following brushes are from my own collection of simple beauté makeup tools and organizational products.

EYEBROW

Eyebrow Brush #2. Shaped much like a mascara wand, this brush is very useful when trimming or grooming individual eyebrow hairs. Use it to help brush brows into place and to keep them perfectly shaped all day.

Angled Eyebrow Brush #1. This brush is perfectly angled to apply a crème or powder color to eyebrows. The firm bristles also work well for blending brow pencil lines.

EYELINER

Fine Liner Brush #41. This flat, rectangular short-bristle brush is great for applying powder eyeliner at the base of the lashline or for pushing color right into the roots of the lashes to make lashes look thicker.

Liquid Liner Brush #42. This thin, pointed brush is perfect for applying liquid, crème, or cake eyeliner with precision.

EYESHADOW

Eyeshadow Brush #13. This precision-style brush is perfect for applying your favorite shade of eye color along the lower lashline. Or use it to apply a very defined line of color into the crease of the eye.

Eyeshadow Brush #17. This firm, angled brush is great for applying a midtone color into the crease or for blending eyeshadow shades together.

Eyeshadow Brush #11. This large brush is great for applying midtone colors into the crease and for all-over blending of the eye colors—a must when you’re wearing more than one eye color.

Eyeshadow Brush #12. This arched brush helps you precisely apply your most intense shade of eye color along your lashline and into the outer corners of the crease of your eyes.

BLUSH

Blush Brush #62. This full, soft brush is great for applying blush or bronzer. It’s tapered toward the end to help you blend as you apply.

Foundation Brush #51. This large, smooth brush helps you evenly apply crème or liquid foundation onto the skin. Perfect for “end-of-the-day” touch-ups, it can help you create a smooth, even application over the foundation you are already wearing.

Jumbo Powder Brush #70. This big, fluffy brush is great for applying loose powder for a smooth, sheer and even application. It also is great for applying blush because it creates a soft, subtle effect.

Concealer Brush #50. This tapered brush is used for applying concealer with precision. It allows you to cover spots or flawed areas of the face without over-blending, so you actually conceal what you do not want to see.

Eyeliner Brush #40. The perfect brush to help you line and define your eyes with eyeshadow or to apply powder over your pencil eyeliner to create a more natural, subtle look.